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Dryness · 4 min read

Why Does Hair Get Dry and Break? How to Wash Without Drying It Out

Straw-like, frizzy, breaking hair. Why the hair shaft is sensitive to pH, where coconut oil fits into hair care and how to wash gently.

Why Does Hair Get Dry and Break? How to Wash Without Drying It Out

The hair shaft feels pH

The outer layer of the hair shaft is sensitive to pH. An alkaline shampoo increases the negative charge of the hair; friction, frizz and breakage can increase. In a study that measured 123 shampoos, 61.8% had a pH above 5.5; among anti-dandruff shampoos the figure was 80.8% (Gavazzoni Dias et al., 2014).

The skin’s surface is slightly acidic; natural skin pH averages 4.7 (Lambers et al., 2006). Products with a pH close to this work in harmony with the barrier’s natural environment.

Coconut oil

In a laboratory study, of three oils only coconut oil clearly reduced protein loss from hair; thanks to its structure it can penetrate the hair shaft (Rele and Mohile, 2003). A 16-week study of 140 women also found that coconut oil enriched the bacteria associated with a healthy scalp (Saxena et al., 2021).

Moisture: glycerin

Glycerin is a well-established humectant that speeds up recovery of the skin’s moisture barrier (Fluhr et al., 1999). It helps preserve the scalp’s feeling of moisture while you wash.

To wash without drying it out

Choose a pH 5.5-friendly shampoo free of alcohol and SLS/SLES. Use lukewarm water. Do not rub wet hair with a towel; pat it dry. Keep the heat low on blow-dryers and curling irons. Do not mistake breakage for shedding: a broken hair has no root at its tip.

Frequently asked

Is a sulphate-free shampoo a must for coloured hair?

A gentle shampoo free of SLS and SLES is easier on both the scalp and the hair shaft in coloured and chemically treated hair.

Sources

  1. Gavazzoni Dias et al. (2014). The Shampoo pH can Affect the Hair: Myth or Reality?. Int J Trichology. PubMed ↗
  2. Lambers et al. (2006). Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora. Int J Cosmet Sci. PubMed ↗
  3. Rele & Mohile (2003). Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. J Cosmet Sci. PubMed ↗
  4. Saxena et al. (2021). Longitudinal study of the scalp microbiome suggests coconut oil to enrich healthy scalp commensals. Sci Rep. PubMed ↗
  5. Fluhr et al. (1999). Glycerol accelerates recovery of barrier function in vivo. Acta Derm Venereol. PubMed ↗